Prismatic Powders
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FAQ



Q 1: The coating is not adhering to the substrate.

A: Try increasing the oven temperature or dwell time. Try reducing the thickness of the coating by lowering the voltage or spray time.

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Q 2: After curing the coating is chipping off the substrate.

A: Try increasing the oven temperature or dwell time. Try reducing the thickness of the coating by lowering the voltage or spray time.

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Q 3: After curing the color looks different than the control panel.

A: If the color looks yellow, the oven temperature is too high or the dwell time is too long. Check the oven exhaust fans to see if they are working properly.

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Q 4: The coating seems to have an orange peel finish.

A: The substrate was brought to temperature too quickly, or the powder was applied too heavily. Try lowering voltage or spray time.

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Q 5: How do I know which powder is UV stable.

A: The first letter in our Control # denotes its chemical make-up. E=Epoxy, H=Hybrid, P=Polyester, U=Polyurethane. E and H are not UV stable. P and U are UV stable. To be safe, adding a clear coat to any powder will increase its life.

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Q 6: The coating has very little impact resistance.

A: The coating is under cured, had a poor pre-treatment, or the film thickness is to heavy.

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Q 7: Powder is contaminated.

A: Primary filter media is binding, final filters could be clogged, moisture or oil in the compressed air lines, or drafts causing dust or other powder to float through the shop.

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Q 8: Why does it take 2 to 5 days for us to ship your order?

A: We make everything fresh on a per order basis. We do not stock powder on the shelf because we have so many colors. Materials arrive for processing continually, sometimes there are time and demand issues that keep us from same or next day shipping.

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Q 9: How long will a powder coated part last?

A: There is no guarantee of life expectancy. Too many factors beyond our control dictate the life of coated parts. We warranty workmanship of powder only "“ see Prismatic Powders quality control

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Q 10: What is our policy on returned orders?

A: We charge a 50% return fee- not including shipping- always call before returning orders! It may cost you more to return an order than to keep. We do not re-sell returned orders.

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Q 11: How long does it take to get through our credit process?

A: Generally 2 -3 weeks. This depends on the response time from your references.

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Q 12: Can I use my UPS or FedEx for shipping?

A: Yes, only if you prepay with credit card or have an account with us. A packaging fee may be charged.

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Q 13: I am not in the U.S. How can I purchase?

A: Credit card-U.S. funds, wire transfer, sorry no C.O.D.'s.

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Q 14: Can I visit the Prismatic Powders facility?

A: Although we would take pleasure in meeting you, our lab and production areas are restricted because of proprieties, production methods, and formulation processes.

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Q 15: What do I use as a base coat when a color swatch says-topcoat over brushed aluminum?

A: Our topcoats, including candies and transparent metallics, are sprayed over brushed aluminum. To achieve a likeness, a basecoat of near chrome or silver metallic will have to be used.

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Q 16: Why do we recommend expedited shipping during hot weather?

A: Some powders will start cross linking when temperatures exceed 100F for extended periods (I.E over weekends and holidays). To avoid lumpy powder, avoid weekend and holiday shipping, you are responsible for correct shipping.

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Q 17: Why do we recommend top coats over silver metallics and veins or leatherettes with silver?

A: Silver, if exposed to weather will oxidize. Near chrome and super chrome also need a topcoat.

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Q 18: Why is my lollypop red cracking (or blue, purple)?

A: Not cured. Recur it, sometimes cracks flow back out.

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Q 19: Why is it dripping or sagging?

A: Because they shot hot.

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Q 20: How to get rid of orange peel?

A: Double coat base color.

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Q 21: What do I do if a part is cured and needs to recoated?

A: Scotchbright blow off and discharge.

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Q 22: How long do I cure a Harley frame?

A: When metal reaches temperature part should be cured for 15 minutes. This will result in a total cure time of approximately 45 minutes at 400F.

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Q 23: Why am I getting fish eyes or circles in coating?

A: K.V. fry base coat 45 K.V. top coat drop down to 30 K.V. keep gun away from part on top coat. When shooting the base coat, the K.V. should be 45. On the top coat, drop to 30 K.V., and keep the gun further away from the part.

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Q 24: How do I get a transparent Top Coat even?

A: If you get a substrate that is hard to shoot, double coat the transparent by first putting down a light coat, and then putting down a second medium to heavy coat.

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Q 25: What can be powder coated?

A: Any metal that is able to withstand the curing temperatures involved with the powder coating process.  Generally 350 - 425 degrees

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Q 26: What are the advantages of powder coating?

A: Powder coated surfaces are more resistant to chipping, scratching, fading, and wearing than other finishes.  Color selection is virtually unlimited with high and low gloss, metallic, textures, and clear finishes available.  Colors stay bright and vibrant longer.  Texture selections range from smooth surfaces to a wrinkled or matte finish, and rough textures designed for hiding surface imperfections.

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Q 27: How much does powder cost?

A: Prices vary according to item quantity and the desired color and finish.  Considering it's advantages, powder coating is an excellent value when compared to conventional paint finishes. 

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Q 28: What is powder coating?

A: Powder coating is a combination of pigment and resin that is ground into a powder form and is sprayed on an item to be coated.  The powder is charged with high voltage which is then attracted to the electrically grounded item to be coated.  The item is heated in a curing oven until the powder flows into a liquid form.  After curing for a specific amount of time, the part is removed to cool, leaving a high quality, durable finish.

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